Avignon

Sur le Pont

This business of kilometres and nautical miles (which are the same as knots) can be confusing.  Yesterday we travelled 81 kilometres which equates to 45 nautical miles (knots).  On this trip we will be speaking in kilometres as that is how the rivers and canals are measured.

This is a wonderfully old town full of interesting history and the surrounding countryside is beautiful.  Our situation in this semi-marina is extremely central and very convenient.  The capitan came by early on our first morning and gave us details of the costs - €18 per night or €72 per week.  As we’d like to stay at least three or four days we’ve decided to go for the full week and thoroughly enjoy Provence. The capitan, a stocky and taciturn gentleman, with bow legs clad in very low slung baggy shorts and who lives in a small yacht on the quay, is to be found strolling up and down at all hours, at least once a day carrying a shovel to collect the dog shit left by careless dog owners.  The French remain unrepentantly disgusting in that area. 

After a leisurely breakfast we set off exploring.

In gorgeous sunny weather, we took a long stroll through the town including climbing to the top of the Palais des Papes (seven popes lived here in the 14^th century).

stopped for a coffee and did a little shopping.  We went to the flea market (interesting, but mostly junk masquerading as antiques) and found Les Halles (the indoor market) where we bought fresh trout for supper.

The next day we took our bikes and crossed in a little ferry by the Pont d’Avignon - which is only half a bridge, the other half having been destroyed in 1226 during some Crusades.  Rebuilt it was continuously damaged by the raging flood waters and eventually abandoned in the 17^th century....

....and explored the Isle de la Barthelasse which is full of fruit farms – hectares and hectares of apples and peaches and pears.   The Rhône branches out at Avignon into two arms which loop round the Isle de la Barthelasse and the banks of the river are thick with liveaboard peniches (long flat barges).

Though we didn’t go sur (on), here is Mike sous (under) le Pont d’Avignon.  Annoyingly, I have that ditty stuck in my head.

Today we walked round this ancient wall which fully circles the inner town.  Spot the modern sculpture in the foreground.

The dock is busy with boats coming and going all the time, a few yachts, but mostly motor boats.  People are friendly but no one stays long enough to get to know.  We made friends with Mike and Barbara on Lady Cate with whom we shared drinks. They had travelled down from Lyons and were able to give us useful information about the Rhone.  They also gave us an old but useful chart for the upper Seine which is the only chart we didn’t have.  We can get up-dated information from other travellers.

We’ve had a really good time here, getting up late, wandering around exploring, eating extraordinarily well, and then sleeping soundly.  As you can see from the photos, the weather has been divine.  Today we paid our dues, filled the water tanks and we will leave tomorrow – we plan to go direct to the ancient town of Viviers which is 75 kilometres and three locks away.   Holding thumbs for our next locking efforts.